Plant Tips

Christmas gifts: to save or ditch...

Colleen Forster of the Fraser South Chapter has written a most appropriate article for their newsletter about our Christmas gifts.  She has delicately named it: Shared Wisdom...to save or not to save...the Christmas Plant Dilemma.  You will receive some new wisdom and guidelines of what to do with those lovely gifts you received this last holiday season.

So...now we have taken down the lights, chipped the tree, and put away the mantle village...and all that is left of our Christmas finery are those lovely blooming plants that our guests and family have thoughtfully given us.  We can't pack them away in the crawl space...and we feel vaguely guilty about just chucking them out...after all, they are living plants, and we are plant people!  So what to do?

I must confess I have tried and tried to do the right thing and save them...but somehow...despite the best of advice and intentions, I have failed miserably...save for a couple of pitiful cactus that manage to push out a few lonely blooms each year.  I have rationalized my poor performance by explaining that just when they need that crucial bit of attention after their post-bloom rest...I am so excited about my outdoor garden emerging that I forget all about them.  Hey...it works for me!

So, if you are weak and sympathetic, and have succumbed to the guilt and intend to keep them...here are some pointers given by the expert to ensure success (right!).

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera)

• The Easter Cactus (Zgyocactus) can be treated in the same say.  Once all the blooms are spent, the plant needs a rest for a few months to recuperate.

• It should be kept fairly dry, in cool, bright indirect light.

• By March or so, you may notice new shoots growing at the tips.  If the plant is leggy, the end segments can be carefully cut off and rooted for more plants.

• The original plant can be potted-up one size...if root bound...and given moderate doses of balanced fertilizer.

• By fall, after all that new growth has filled in, and you haven't given it root-rot by over watering, or sun scald by too much exposure, you should find a cool bright place to put it to set the buds. It will respond in 14 hours of total darkness each night, or night temps of 10 to 13° C (50 to  55° F) consistently.  As soon as you see the flower buds have formed, move it to the place you would like to enjoy it for the holidays, as they dislike drastic changes once in bloom, and the buds will drop.

Of course, you could be one of those green hands people...like my Mum...who must have just the perfect situation...for they do nothing special...and their plants are ancient and glorious.

That Amaryllis should be on its second or third bloom stem now, and will grow more leaves as the blooms fade.  Keep it bright...with a bit of food and moderate water into the summer. You can put it outside when frost is over, with shelter from wind.  By late summer, the leaves should begin to fade, so gradually slack off the water to no water at all...and let it be.  Store in a cool dry place in or out of the pot until late fall...some say put it in the refrigerator...some say tip it over under a bench in greenhouse...you choose.

For blooming at Christmas, give eight weeks lead time.  Pot it up in fresh soil in a pot not much bigger than the bulb...with good drainage...leaving the neck and shoulder above the soil, and water just a bit until growth appears.  I turn mine regularly so the blooms grow straight.  They say these are easy...but I have found that after the second year overturned under the greenhouse bench...they have kinda had it!  Pansies!

Azalea

Maybe you received an Azalea this year, and since we all grow them so easily outside...what could be easier...right?  Just be aware, these florist varieties are almost always Southern Indicas, and usually can only tolerate a few degrees of frost...if any.

They should bloom for 3-4 weeks if kept cool, bright, and moist.  Once the weather warms up nicely, say in April,

• Trim it for shape, if you wish.
• Put it outside in bright indirect light.
• Feed it some rhodo food (the potted soil has little available nutrition).
• Keep it evenly moist by plunging in mulch.

Bring it back into a cool, bright place before frost, and it should be blooming again by Christmas. Cool and humid keeps the buds from dropping.

Cyclamens

The Cyclamen also grows from a bulb-type base (a corm, like gladdies or begonias), and the growth cycle is much the same...grow, bloom, rest.

The leaves can remain for a couple of months after the blooms are finished if kept cool, bright, and not soggy wet (seems to be a trend happening here).  Once the leaves start to fade, ease off on the water till they go, and then rest the corm in the pot until early fall.  Replace or replenish the soil, and then water more as you see leaves starting.  Soon the flower buds should be unfurling for another gorgeous display.

Poinsettia

And, now for the one we all love to hate...the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), which we do not speak of within earshot of our editor!

In truth, to succeed in keeping this one over, you must have obtained it from a reputable source and made sure it was kept warm at all times...even a short trip across a rainy, windy parking lot and home in a cold car can be the death knell, and nothing do thence forward will help you one bit!

• Poinsettias cannot tolerate cold drafts below 10° C (50° F) or excessive dry heat either...around 18 to 21° C (65  to 70° F) is good.
• They should be watered when the soil surface is dry to touch...with lukewarm water...and have bright indirect light for at least six hours a day.
• Ensure that it has good drainage...that pretty pot cover may be drowning the Poinsettia within!

If purchased when the true flowers in the center are still closed, the bracts should last at least a couple of months, but even if all else had been done properly, the leaves may be getting tired by then, too.

• Put the plant aside in a slightly cooler place.
• Water only as needed to keep from shriveling.
• By April you can cut it back to 8 inches and start to give regular liquid feeding.
• Can even put it outside once it stays above 13° C (55° F)... at night!
• By June it may need potting up or refreshing.

To have blooms at Christmas again, it needs total darkness for 14 hours at night after October 1.  And no turning on the light for a quick check of how it is doing!   Once the bracts are coloring, do not feed any more.

Oh...and by the way...studies have proven that the sap is not really all that poisonous to humans (pets are another thing, so watch them carefully.)  A 50-lb child would have to eat in excess of 500 bracts to be seriously affected.  However, some people can be allergic, as with many plants, and they should not handle Poinsettias without gloves and extra care.

words of advice

In light of all this scintillating advice, I should think that you are bursting with enthusiasm and verve, ready to take on the new plant world of re-blooming Christmas gifts, and wowing all your friends and family with your horticultural genius.  I read this over myself and sigh....maybe I will try again...maybe it will work this time.  Sigh!

Happy Indoor Gardening...for now!

Spring tasks ahead…fertilize

After all the fall and winter rain has leached all the nutrients from the soil, remember it is time to fertilize...even rhododendrons and azaleas.

The old adage is...before they bloom, after they bloom.

One recommended formula: 20-12-8-8.

Dead leaves...Dr. Rhody, help!

Dear Dr. Rhody:

We have an unusual problem with our rhodies this summer.  Several of our bushes have put out new growth with wrinkled, deformed leaves that are also a light green color.

In addition, I notice a large number of our rhodies have dead leaves.  One half of the leaf turns black and brittle...while the other half next to the stem is still green.  This is the only summer I have noticed these two problems.

Any ideas about what is causing these problems?

 -- Vicki

Dr. Rhody has the answer

Dear Vicki:

Yes, I have a couple of thoughts concerning your rhodies.   The wrinkled, deformed new growth can be caused by a freeze...just as the leaves begin to develop.  I have many plants that have shown this type of new growth.  Next year the new growth will be normal and it will be very difficult to even see the wrinkled leaves.  I have been taught in seminars that there are some insect grubs that can cause the leaves to be deformed and wrinkled.   I don't believe I have ever had this problem...but it can occur.

black brittle leaves...a concern

The black brittle leaves are another concern.  Without a sample to view, I can only guess at a possible explanation.  My first guess would be wind damage.  You live in an area that has lots of wind.  If new growth is affected by enough wind, all of the moisture is transpired or evaporated from the leaf and the cells can die.  This usually occurs on the tips and ends of the leaves on the outside of the plant.

excess fertilizer also a cause...

Excess fertilizer us another possible cause of leaf end damage. I believe the wind is your most likely culprit.

-- Dr. Rhody

Note: Dr. Rhody is a member of the Siuslaw Chapter and writes for their newsletter, and graciously agrees that other ARS chapters can use his material.

Spring fever has struck!

Kath Collier, former editor of the Portland Newsletter, wrote an article on Spring that is appropriate to bring to the front at this time.  Spring is ready to burst out all over and bring us new hidden treasures.  Here is what she wrote:

Spring fever has struck!  I just had to break out of the species review and go back for at least an issue or two on gardening issues that several garden friends are still talking about.

I'm listening to folks chat about the vast amounts of pruning they did this winter.  Like a lot of others, we got some of the pruning done...but not nearly as much as I had hoped.  But homework and earning a living comes first...and sometimes gets in the way of having a good time.

pruning...pruning...pruning

After spending three days in the cold pruning grapes, I can't help but wonder if there might be another time during the year, when it is not 30 degrees, windy, and snowing...when some of this pruning could be done.  The good news is yes...depending...maybe.

• Pruning can be done on many plants all year long...particularly if you strive to minimize the potential damage to the plant.
• Early spring is still a good time to prune many plants.
• Pruning in late summer may encourage growth and should be minimized.
• Still time to prune plants that exhibit dieback from storm or cold damage, winter kill, etc.
• Cleaning up broken limbs may help avoid additional insect and disease problems later.
• Use care when pruning because it could dramatically impact the bloom...and, in some cases, sacrificing the bloom to maintain the plant may be a good thing. But, don't wait too long to decide.

pruning new flush...not good idea

Pruning plants that have just put on a flush of new spring growth is not a good idea. This volume of growth takes a lot of energy that has been stored in the roots and stems over the winter.  Pruning right after the flush may weaken or dwarf the plant...particularly since it has just given up all of its reserves for a good spring show.

pruning suckers...off with their heads!

Some types of pruning can be done year around that would benefit the plant.  For instance, take suckers.  Not the human kind...the plant kind.

Suckers are usually vigorous shoots that originate from the root or stem tissue below the ground.  Water sprouts are vigorous shots that originate from the trunk or older branches.  Why let these guys grow?  Not only do they use up a great deal of energy...but they may also retard air circulation around the plants.  Off with their heads!

You have seen it before.  I would like to add to the definition: deadwood is last year's die back that was not pruned just because it might not have been dead...but it is definitely over the hill now.  There comes a time when you can answer the questions, "Is it really dead or just playing with my emotions?"

This time of year it may be difficult to determine if that azalea branch is really dead or still dormant.  Many evergreen azaleas will flower before they get leaves and some branches, right now look a lot like deadwood.

• If you are not sure, snap off a small branch. Is it green? If so, it may come back.
• If not, snap off a bit larger branch.  If it is green, you are in luck, if it is brown…firmly grasp the base of the plant...
• Whoa!  Not so fast...
• It is not uncommon for well-established plants to pull through by re-sprouting from the roots...in this case, the good suckers.
• To help promote this, clean out some of the dead branches and keep an eye on the plant...if nothing happens, it is time to yank.

Yes:

• Clean up winter dieback.
• Remove suckers and water sprouts (and as little bit of light thinning of the oldest and tallest stems)

Depending:

• Deadwood examination and cleanup.

Maybe:

• A bit of shaping or thinning that won’t impact the bloom significantly.

Fertilizing rhododendrons

Allan Murray made a most interesting presentation to the Cowichan Chapter recently.  The members present wanted more details.  The "experts" believe it is one of the best applications.  The information comes in handy at this time of the year...spring!

Allan says, the quality and quantity of the flowers on your rhododendrons next year depends greatly on what and when you feed them this year.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are three elements that you need to keep plant growth in proper balance, in terms of growth, flower set and leaf color.  A properly fertilized plant is hardier and can withstand more cold than one underfed.

Applied in the right amount:

• Nitrogen: promotes normal growth and healthy green leaves.

• Phosphorus: promotes root development and increases flower production...without ample phosphorus the quality and quantity of blooms is reduced.

• Potassium: has overall value to plants providing them with vigor and disease resistance. Rhododendrons without sufficient potassium will look unhealthy and their appearance will disappoint you.

Deficiencies of these elements in Rhododendrons show the following symptoms:

• Nitrogen: lighter leaves than normal for the variety...stunted growth...stalks too slender...few new side shoots.

• Phosphorus: foliage darker than normal...shoot growth retarded...sometimes a yellowing between the veins on the lower leaves...generally the leaf coloring is purplish, especially on the stalks.

• Potassium: localized in older lower leaves...dead leaf margins and tips occur and leaves appear mottled...yellowing begins at leaf margins and moves toward the center...finally, the margins curl under and turn brown...older leaves usually drop.

Too much nitrogen will burn the foliage, destroy the young feeder roots and force excessive vegetative growth.  Burn is generally at the ends and edges of leaves and will be on any area of the whole plant...not just the sunny side.  Give as much water as possible to wash the fertilizer out of the roots.

Before you fertilize:

• look for a soil pH of 4.5 to 5.5
• examine the previous year’s growth, bud set, leave color and size
• note the position of the plant: sun/shade, water, especially overhead water.

This information will help you determine how much fertilizer your specific plants need. For example, water use or rainfall will determine the amount of fertilizer needed. Overhead and sprinkler systems may require more fertilizer applications per year as the water will wash away some of the fertilizer. Drip or restricted water systems may reduce the number of fertilizer applications per season.

chemical fertilizer

Chemical fertilizer comprises non-organic materials...it is quick acting, and usually cheaper and more convenient than organic fertilizer.

Green Valley's 10-8-6 rhododendron fertilizer, which was developed by Tom Brown, head of the Geology Department at the University of British Columbia, and a member of the Vancouver Chapter comprises:

• 10% nitrogen
• 8% phosphorus
• 6% potassium
• 5% magnesium
• 1.8% iron
• 6% sulphur and trace minerals

To apply chemical fertilizer...

• mid-March: first application
• mid-April: second application
• 1st week in May: third application

Later fertilization is not recommended: soft succulent growth is the first to be damaged by a freeze...the plants need to be in a mature woody condition for when the cold weather arrives.

Sprinkle 3-4 oz per square yard at the drip line of the rhododendron, taking care to avoid spills on the leaves.  It will burn the leaves, if left on.

organic fertilizer

Allan's organic fertilizer is made of once living materials or byproducts of things once living, e.g. blood meal, bone meal, manure, compost.  It is slower than chemical fertilizer...but feeds longer.

Organic fertilizers are ideal for rhododendrons from the standpoint of both nutrients and humus. It is made as follows...measure by volume:

• 4 parts alfalfa meal
• 4 parts canola meal
• 4 parts blood meal
• 2 part dolomite lime
• 1 part rock phosphate
• 1 part bone meal
• 1 part kelp meal
• 1 part greensand

To apply organic fertilizer:

• the fertilizer...with its trace elements...will release slowly for 2-3 years…but should be applied each year for maximum benefit.  When to apply depends on the weather.
• Generally speaking: the beginning of March...spread magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) at the rate of 1/2 lb per 100 square feet.
• mid-March: sprinkle organic fertilizer around the drip line of the plant, 2-3 oz (by volume) per square yard.

It is the time of the year to tackle a good procedure.  One that has been proven and put it to use.  Another project to consider.  Good gardening...and good luck.

A warm, warm thought for Spring

More than anything...
I must have flowers always,
Always.

-- Claude Monet